Boat Trailer Plans

I am about to build a trailer for my 14' sailing dinghy, i have found plans available for $25, but wonder if there are any free plans out there?
I think you have answered the wrong question Ava (answer 3), i want boat building plans not racist abuse, by the way i'm not british!

I assume you're welding it?

I found this for a trailer:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge /articles/content/mower-trailer-project. asp

I found this more general idea-page:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater /274/1998/0115/index.html

But Miller Electric has nice pics of one - no plans though. Sorry.

2009-03-11 17:18:59 by mankmunky

Short video to show some of the plans and designs currently available from TrailerPlans.com.au

i've got an older 14 foot lund boat and i was wondering if anyone has plans for a trailer that i could build/adapt to fit my boat. any plans would be appreciated. the boat only weighes about 200 LBS so it doesn't have to be too heavy duty

Harbor Freight has a trailer that will accommodate your boat for $299. You couldn't build one of your own for less than that.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/di splayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5002

2007-05-05 16:16:47 by E_NA_NA

Price: $79.99 $56.99

Heavy-duty kayak trailer cart
Pair of knobby inflatable tires
Assembles in 5 minutes, no tools required

checkout custom made double decker trailers on wiki,.

2010-01-26 08:04:06 by cushman

Overall 48 1/2in.L x 27 13/16in.W x 24 13/16in.H
Steel frame with black powder-coated finish
Ball height adjusts from 18 1/2in. to 26in.

I'm about to purchase a trailer to carry my 12ft boat and I have never driven with a trailer. The boat is quite small so I hope it's not too much of a big difference. I know some basics such as making wide right turns, giving more time to acelerate and break, giving more space ahead, giving more space to pass, and also not loading the boat too much in the rear or front but rather balancing it. I plan on practicing in a parking lot (mostly reversing and turning) once i get the trailer but are there any other tips I could use? Where could I read up on this? I also need to know how to secure the boat onto the trailer as well as the trailer onto the vehicle. How much more difficult is it than driving regularly?
my tow vehicle is a 2002 Land Rover Freelander

Every one on this thread has been constructive and generall giving great advice. As stated make sure you have 150 plus lbs on the hitch ball to keep the trailer from bouncing off. Once you couple the trailer to the hitch ball (assuming you have the proper ball for the given trailer coupler), there is a clip that folds down to lock the ball into the coupler, here you can put a ring clip or even a tiny lock that one no one can uncouple your trailer for kicks.

Route the safety chains so that they cross under the trailer tounge and attach to the hitch on the opposite side. Once you have the elec connections made, check for operation.

When driving remember not to make continuous cyclic corrections to the wheel as harmonics will amplify the corrections at the tail of the trailer (wagging it).

When backing up hold the wheel at the bottom with one hand, now look over your shoulder while backing, move the hand in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go!

BTW if you can get a front mounted hitch ball, you can nose your trailer into the tightest parking spots with great ease, especially if you can see over the boat! If you can get a trailer with an extendable tounge, do so as it will allow you to float the boat off the trailer while keeping your vehicle well out of the water a great thing when the water is salty or the ramp is slick with algae.

As mentioned ratcheted straps are great as is safety tether at the front to augment the winch once boat is fully on the trailer.

If using trailer in brakish or saltwater, rinse it and the boat after each use to reduce rust.

Enjoy the water.

2007-06-22 17:00:36 by C H

I have a galvanised steel trailer for our boat which has seen better days. I dont have the thousand odd pounds to buy an new one so i need to carry out some repairs. Most of the rust seems to be superficial, rather than eating through the box beams.

Should i take off the excess rust with a wire brush and then paint it with hammerite, or is there a paint that is similar to the zinc allready coating the beams? Should i prime it first then (and if so, what with), or use rust eater or would i be better off and try and build myself a new trailer?

Does anyone have the plans for building boat trailers, or know how much it would cost to dip a whole trailer. The trailer is about 12 foot long and about 5 foot wide?

Thanks in advance...

First of all, for safety sake, you must ensure that the rust is only superficial, hit the structure with a hammer, this will show up any weaknesses. Any holes should be repaired by grinding the galvanised steel back to bright steel and welding mild steel plate over the holes. If the section is too bad you may have to cut and sleeve a section.

Wire brushes merely polishes the rust, use a angle grinder with a grinding disc on it to cut back the rust to bright metal.

Then apply Jenolite in accordance with the manufacturers instructions, prime and paint or just paint with Hammerite.

Hope that helps, email me if you need clarification

2007-01-02 06:30:38 by EvilSpike