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Omc Boat Motor Parts


Moeller Marine Products

Boat Motors


Moeller Marine Fuel Tank NPT Connector (Johnson/Evinrude, 1/4", Male)
(Sports) Moeller Marine Products
Release date: 2007-01-19


Price: $10.00 $5.73

Answers

V6 OMC boat motor swapping for V8 305 Chevy will it work with the existing out drive ?

The boat is a 1983 glaspar waitsboro, the V6 block is cracked and I can't find another block. So I got a buddy at work that has a 78' 305 that needs to be rebuilt, so there for I can rebuild with marine part's on the inside instead of automotive part's. The real question is will the 305 bolt up to the existing out drive??!! If the 305 want bolt up to the OMC out drive what kind of mercruiser will fit it, the boat is 17' 5" and not really that heavy. I just don't know what out drive will go to which motor and which size out drive for the size boat. If any body know's how to fix this problem I need advice THANK'S Justin


The engine will bolt up but the gear ratio will be too far off to repair with just a prop change. And have you taken into the consideration the cost of rebuilding the engine and buying the proper exhaust manifolds which are a couple hundred bucks a piece. You would be farther ahead to buy a remanufactured marine engine, just swap it out and be done with it

OMC 1987 Cobra 3.0L Stern Drive Running


This is a 1987 OMC 3.0L Chev engine in a 16' Bowrider boat.

Four Winns jet boat, OMC 115 Turbojet boat motor rebuild question ?

Had a major overheat. Top right cylinder has very low compression, 15LB, All others at 115. Pulled the head cover, looks like the rings came off and caused a hundred or so pits on the piston as well as inside the head cover, can not see cylinder walls yet. My questions is could just the one piston be replaced? Could just that one cylinder be bored if it is also damaged?
Called local marina {Columbus, Oh} they said sounds like a total rebiuild needed, 2500.00 for the motor, 1000.00 for parts, rebuild carbs and labor. 3500.00 total, Boats in great condition. These boats if running and look decent are worth only about 3000.00 or less.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions


The "major" overheat bothers me and your mechanic. The problem is you are looking at the first piston than completely failed. The rest were moments behind. The labor is about 3 hours different between one cylinder and all of them.- Even less if re-bored. Then the heads are warped and that silver looking stuff on all the valves is melted aluminum from some where.

No shop in it's right mind will do a single hole, as when the rest of them fail- they will be the rotten scoundrels who ruined your motor.

Where can I find parts for a 1968 IMP Aztec boat with an OMC sterndrive and 302 Ford motor?



OMC and your Ford 302 are very common and parts are easy to come by.
IMP (iola molded plastics) Boats have quite a nice history -
see story in link below
Definately worth the read - Seems they used a lot of indian names for the different models - ie Inca Commanche Aztec

You can get parts in the boat trader and bargain trader

Boat won't start, no sounds. Battery checked & charged, connections tight. Worked 1 mo ago. ?

1976 AMF slickcraft with OMC I/O motor. Ran OK one month ago. Now I can run blower, but when I turn key it does nothing, no sounds; can't run blower or running lights after turning key to start motor. Battery is fully charged and was checked at auto part store. Terminals are tight. What should I check/replace?


"can't run blower or running lights after turning key to start motor..."

Blower and lights work before you turn the key, right?

Seen that before. Could be corrosion/dirt build-up on a connection somewhere -- even though the terminals are tight, they need to be polished till they shine. Use sandpaper if you have to.

Don't forget the battery (-) connection to engine block ground.

Inspect the battery cables closely; insulation gets nicked or chafed, corrosion can happen inside where you can't see it.

If all that checks out ok, measure voltage at the starter solenoid small input terminal (where 12V from the keyswitch is connected), with the key turned to "start".

No or low voltage there, troubleshoot the keyswitch, neutral safety switch, wiring harness.

2.3 OMC Cobra won't shut off..?

I have a 1989 boat that has a 2.3L OMC Cobra Stern Drive in it. I started it up for the first time this weekend. There appears to be several issues here:

1. The motor won't shut off with the key. I tried turning it off at the switch and nothing happened. I even disconnected both battery cables and it wouldn't cut off. I had to pull off three of the plug wires before it would shut off.
I just replaced the starter with an automotive starter (I know the whole deal about it being dangerous, and creating a small atomic explosion, etc...) I bought the old one from Advanced Auto, so I carried it back to see if they had a new one. The part number was five digits long ... something like P3191. The section of the part number that has the "3" was partially torn off, so we had to guess and it turned out that P3191 was a valid part number for them. It looks identical to the old one, and has the same amount of teeth. Since it actually started the boat I assume it's the correct one, but I could be wrong. If I'm wrong could that be what's not letting it cut off. It sounds normal when it starts, i.e. no grinding, the bendix didn't hang, nothing wierd.

Issue 2. The motor is overheating (that's why I had to cut it off quick). I can see water shooting out of the two little holes on the stern drive. I do notice that water is leaking around the water pump area. It's behind a cover so I'm not 100 % sure that's where it's coming from. It's been about three years since I replaced the water impeller on the outdrive, so i know it's about due. There are four hoses that are coming out of my thermostat housing, and I know one of them goes to the water pump. I've seen people pull that hose off and check to see if it's pumping, but I don't know which hose it is.

Any idea's on the two issues?
As to the person who refused to answer my questions; that's fine. Your mom should have told you that if you don't have anything nice to say, keep your rude mouth shut and go on to the next question.

Turns out it was the alternator, there was a diode that was going bad and it was causing power to run all the time. I've replaced that alternator ... and starter, Mr. Rude Mouth.

Let's take time to consider this ... cars use automotive starters and nothing blows up ... hmmm, I wonder why? Could it be that they have plenty of ventilation??? Most likely so, or could it be some government conspiracy that makes boats have issues with them???

Well, if it helps you sleep better I usually take the cover off the motor before I start working on it, so therefore the motor has plenty of ventilation, and if that wasn't enough, maybe the fan I had blowing on it helped some ... who knows. I'm still here, and your still an idiot. And Haynes doesn't make a repair manual for my boat, OMC does.


First off, and you know better, DO NOT PUT AUTO PARTS ON MARINE ENGINES! They will cause a fire! As for the rest of your questions; I will not answer them for you; as you have no common sense about you! Buy yourself a Haynes Repair Manual. I have seen too many boats blow-up at gas dock; worse would be out in the lake, with no one around!


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