Boat Engines
MinnKota Powerdrive 54 V2 Pontoon Boat Trolling Motor with Quick Release Bracket(54-lbs Thrust, 48" Shaft)
(Sports) Minn Kota
Quick-release lever for fast motor deployment
Unique bearing system reduces friction to cut fish-spooking noise; 3-year warranty
Side-to-side steering foot pedal with precise speed control knob
Price:
$559.99
$559.99
Answers
I am interested in buying a pontoon boat with and inboard engine or adapting one myself.
JC pontoons make the Evolution 260. There are a couple others that make them. This boat have up to a 320 hp inboard, but comes standard with the MerCruiser 4.3L (190 hp). MerCuriser is the highest quality I/O you can buy. The cost of maintance, however, is higher with an inboard. Another option you could look at is a deck boat. the deack boat is a pontoon top with a v hull. They are easier to find used and have a higher top speed potentional with the v-hull.
Brand new 4.3L long block was installed. Old engine was freeze damaged due to improper winterizing . We were able to reuse most of the original ...
that was parked behind the uss missouri in bremerton, washington
it was there for around 5 years
it is about 70 feet long with a 747 jet engine on top of two long pontoons
here is info on the Fresh 1, a boing build catamaran hydrofoil
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h ttp://www.foils.org/gallery/fresh2.jpg&a mp;imgrefurl=http://www.foils.org/galler y/large.htm&usg=__GRdG0cWyHxy8NU3aGK WHH-_g0ac=&h=420&w=800&sz=20 5&hl=en&start=23&sig2=UwDzJC C0AT-SnZTT67L9oQ&um=1&tbnid=oC5C iNBmJbMWcM:&tbnh=75&tbnw=143& ;prev=/images%3Fq%3Dboeing%2Bbuilt%2Bjet %2Bengine%2Bpowered%2Bcatamaran%2Bhydrof oil%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%2 6rlz%3D1T4GGLL_enUS344US344%26sa%3DN%26s tart%3D21%26um%3D1&ei=Fg5aS-n6KJf4tA ON5uWZAg
http://militarytimes.com/blogs/scoopdeck /2009/07/21/brother-can-you-spare-a-hydr ofoil/
hope this helps
Price:
$699.99
$699.99
Unique bearing system reduces friction to cut fish-spooking noise; 3-year warranty
Quick-release lever for fast motor deployment
Ultra-quiet trolling motor with 68 pounds of thrust and 48-inch shaft
Most Pontoon boats use an outboard motor usually as low as 25 hp up to 125 hp, dependent upon the hull structure and transom. For the larger "Party Barges" and bigger some will be equipped with a V6 MerCruiser I/O with an Alpha 1 outdrive and able to attain 35 mph on the water.
As far as normal fuel, it's regular unleaded gas like in your car. For those that have two-stroke outboard motors, you'll add two stroke injection oil into a separate tank near the engine. It's actually rare to see anyone, anywhere, that still has a two-stroke outboard that you have to add oil to the gas tank in a measured amount.
Price:
$35.84
$44.16
Durable and easy-to-read gauge
Perfect companion for Boating
High quality with low price
The anti cavitation plate is about 1-1/2 inches below the pontoon boat mounting plate that is under water. It is on the second hole set of the engine. One hole set above set above. Can't find any kinks in the steering cable and it is well lubricated.
I have been reading alot about pressure wave and operating location of the anti cavitation plate. The prop in the pressure wave can cause a lot of problems? It seems that I'm too deep and this is creating the torque I feel in steering. Just where is the reference location of the AC Plate to the logs or the mounting frame bottom on a pontoon boat? Or do I just go by the AC Plate should not be under water? I would like an on the ground reference diminision. This outboard weighs a ton. Trail and error is not a happy camper way to go.
The steering is through one cable push/pull. The steering cable is new. The motor turns easy enough by hand when out of water and I'm at the back of the boat moving it. Not real hard steering when not under power thru the steering wheel either. The motor "anti airation" plate is over a foot in the water with a normal load on the pontoon boat not under power. I contacted Mercery Marine in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. They gave me a diminision of 3 inches under the water for this "anti airation" plate as a minimum when not under power. Mercery says that being this deep will cause hard steering. To comply with the 3 inch min diminision, there isn't a way the rigging would allow this. I asked Mercery for a Maximum diminision and they said see a dealer for the reason they set this so low in the water? I have yet to get the dealer to agree that the boat steers hard. Fat chance they will agree it is set too low.
I assume Mercery calls the anti-cavitation plate anti-airation. I have picture ref.
what type of steering system is it?
as said, lubricating the cable isnt possible, should be sealed, meaning, it never needs lubricating. if the seal is gone, cable is shot, new cable job.
however, some older cables could be lubricated. depends on it its a pull cable. where you have 2 cables each side of the boat, qhich can usually be lubricated, by greasing the steering gear behind the helm and the exposed cables on full lock.
some of the, now outlawed, ball and socket cable systems could to. where the cale is hoooked to the engine, via a ball and socket joint in the middle. if yuo have this system, forget lubricating it, tear it off and fit a through hub steering system. that old system also can be hard to steer with.
as far the the water thing. could be a number of things. im douting the caviatation plate though. do you have a dolphin? umm, those plastic fns you can put on your cavitation plate that 'makes the boat faster' etc. if so, take that piece of crap off. all it does is adds wetted surface area and produces drag. they can cause spray to come up, at high speeds sometimes.
******
over a foot under the water is too deep. umm you need to lift that up.
umm the easiest, but not maybe the cheapest, would be if you are lucky, and you have a 'long shaft' outboard fitted. theres usually 3 sizes manufacturers use.
short shaft, which is 15inch, long, which is 20onch, and extra long shaft, which is 25inches.
this measurement is the measurement from the mounting bracket, where it rests on the transom, or engine mount. down to the cavitation plate.
as a rule of thumb, to determin what shaft length your set up calls for, you measure from the top of the transom, to the bottom of the hull, then use which ever shaft length comes closest. for example, if it measures 19 inches, then you would use a long shaft motor. being a pontoon boat however, its not so easy, since, you dont have a keel line to measure to. so, one way s to take a length of wood, and hold it across the back, under the hulls, then measure from that wood, to the top of the transom, or engine brack, or whatever your engine mounts to.
most pontoon boats use long leg, (20") but it depends on th set up and how the engine is mounted.
thats the best way, but, might require high cost output to correct if you need to replace your engine. is possible to convert many outboards, as all it is is a difference in the prop shaft length, and leg length, but a cheaper alternative could be with use of a jacking plate. which allows you to raise the engine up on its mounting. i dont ike them on large engines, but that be a cheaper fix.
I have a new Avalon Pontoon Boat which has been in salt water for one month. I pulled it out recently and found a considerable amount of baricles attached to the pontoons and the motor. What can I use to reduce or prevent this problem. I used a pressure washer to remove as many of the barnicles from the engine and pontoons, but portions of the pontoons can not be reached while on the trailer. Even after powerwashing with straight water, there is a roughness to the pontoons. What can be done to remove the roughness and coat the pontoons.
+ first you need to get all of the barnacles off. If that means jacking up the pontoon boat from the trailer one section at a time then that's what you have to do. Be really careful, and place safety blocks and dun age where you can so that there is no danger of having it fall on you or getting stuck. Next you need to clean the portion of the boat to as smooth as you can get it. The smoother the surface the better. I have seen people use a good quality paste wax to make it smooth and I have seem sail boat racers use a coat of soap to smooth the bottom and prevent barnacles but they are very temporary solutions as barnacles are pervasive. The longest lasting solution is the use of a good marine bottom paint at least two coats. Even that will not last a whole season. Interlux and Petit are the ones I have tried so far.
Good Luck, work safe, and
Happy Holidays
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