Boat Engine Troubleshooting

I have a 17 year old Mariner 45 HP outboard engine. I took the boat out and the engine ran great. The 2 days later I tried to start it and it would not start. I have spark to the plugs and fuel running to the carbs, changed the fuel filter and got new fuel & gas tank, put in new plugs. The engine still won't start. Any ideas?

Need a few more details.......Will it crank but just wont turn over or is it totally dead?

2007-08-05 18:02:24 by spacedoorgo

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We took the engine to a local mechanic and after the motor was returned we still couldn't get the boat to start. We had to take it to the marine boat shop to troubleshoot and he had to tear the motor apart and found the timing was the issue. We had to spend another $1000 to figure this out. I know ... at what point do you just dump the boat?

Don't dump the boat but report the first mechanic to the attorney general's office in your state. No matter how long they keep it they can't charge you if it still won't work.

You can take it to civil court but with the expense & time involved the A.G.'s office is a better idea. Even if you do the other I'd go there. That way the screw up would be hurt even worse because in some states there are automatic fines, they have a file with the state & they are reported to the BBB. That's not too good for business and you help others who may have been screwed as well when they have to turn their records over to the state.

2007-07-18 22:23:34 by Let there be Peace on Earth

Price: $16.95

I have a 86 Seville that I am trying to get started. Is my first boat and I am curious as to what a particular part is. It is mounted on the inside of the transom just behind the rear seat on the port side. Its part number is SAE J1171, it has two rubber tubes (one black and one light colored) coming out of the bottom of it disappearing somewhere under the motor.

Next, I managed to change the starter so now it actually cranks but it still won't start. It has been set up since last summer and the tank was totally empty. I had a small 2 gallon gas can that I use for my mower and I used the gallon or so that was left to put a bit of fuel in it After advancing the throttle back and forth a few times with the key in the on position the carb still looks completely dry. I guess i need to get a spark tester and compression tester and rule out those two things before i think about getting a new fuel pump. Is there any way to troubleshoot a mechanical fuel pump. If it was electric I have read I should here it running for a few seconds when I turn the key but what about a mechanical one?

First, the SAE number is not a part no, it is a safety designation for marine rated electrical devices. I think what you are looking at is your power trim pump and resevoir.
You realize with a mechanical fuel pump, you have to crank the engine to get fuel up to the carb, right? Use a bit of gas in a spray bottle down the carb to help wake it up . Make sure you have the muffs on even when just cranking the engine over.

2009-06-02 18:58:59 by swanny903 !

Price: $27.95

Hello all,

Just got my first boat......

Its a 196? Newman, with a 1961 Johnson 40 hp motor (RDSL-23). The boat is in pristine shape, however the engine is found lacking. I did a compression check and received 60psi on #1 and 63psi on #2. I checked the spark and I wasn't getting anything. I then followed the service manual suggested troubleshooting approach.
1. Spark plugs- checked out fine- [COLOR="Red"]still no spark[/COLOR]
2. unhooked both harness and all wires from cutout switch [COLOR="Red"]still no spark[/COLOR]
3. checked and replaced; points, coils, wires, and condensers.
4. flywheel has magnetism
5. ????? this is where I need your help??????



Does anyone have further steps I can take. I should have spark I am baffled.....Please help

Thanks in advance
Josh
Are saying i should try starting the engine? Even without spark?

Wow, it's a big learning curve to buy a classic boat and engine as a first time owner, actually it's almost vintage isn't it. That's the same as buying a '61car as your first ever vehicle.

First fit only new parts - unless you can guarantee their condition. Start with new spark plugs - even if the ones you have look o.k. Check the cut-out switch with a multimeter. Assuming all parts fitted were new, check the coil measurements as per the manual (good move having that) with your multimeter. When fitting the parts did you make sure there was good earthing connections? And of course check that the points are opening at the right moment and correct amount - check they are not held slightly open and that the insulators were correctly fitted. Never allow WD40 to spray on the points, although it is fine as a general water protectant and light lube elsewhere it is best to use specific electrical system waterproofing and dispersant sprays.

There are several possibilities, the process will be one of elimination and possibly even going right back and re-fitting all the parts very carefully from scratch, measuring and confirming each stage and ensuring wiring insulation etc. is sound. What you are actually doing is joining a select group who learn about and run classic and vintage engines - there is certainly a bit of art and secret knowledge in getting these old engines to purr. While the compression is low it is within 5%, testing the compression with a few squirts of two stroke oil will show if the rings are stuck or worn, but with these old bangers don't expect to get the compression levels of engines made half a century later either. The above engine was pretty well regarded, but is not particularly economical. They blow a fair bit of unburnt fuel out the back - nothing you can do either, it is a fundamental design issue and shows fifty years of advancement in design and materials.

Good luck.

2010-05-19 08:54:59 by zeobo

I have a Vetus M3.10 in my sailboat. I lent the boat to a friend who reported to me that it stalled on her 3 times. A few days later I motor-sailed the boat 12 hours with no problems until we went to dock and it stalled when the engine control lever was placed in the forward gear with no throttle position. Since then the engine has stalled on me several times. For the most part it does not stall when not in gear or when in gear with throttle on. It predominantly stalls when in gear with no throttle but occassionally and very rarely when idling or with throttle when in gear. The fuel tank is not empty and I have added clean diesel and injector cleaner to the tank. I have changed the fuel filter and drained the fuel/water seperator. I have changed the transmission fluid and scraped the prop and shaft of barnacles and other growth. I have a gravity fed fuel delivery system so there is no lift pump. For the most part no smoke comes out the exaust
when it stalls. I have done all the troubleshooting I can think of and am at a point where I don't know what to do next. I don't understand why it mostly stalls when in gear with no throttle and for the most part runs fine in nuetral in any throttle position and when in gear with throttle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It is a 3 cylinder.

When I restart it after stalling it mostly runs fine but occassionally I have to bump up the throttle in nuetral for around 30 seconds until it can run smooth in idle again

How many cylinders is it? I have a boat with twin 4 cylinder diesels and just last week I was running along and one of the engines started to vibrate. I thought I had picked up a line but when I slowed down and shifted back into gear I could hear a difference in the way the engine was running. It turned out one of the injectors just stopped working. I could tell this by loosening the high pressure fuel line to each injector. You can hear each cylinder drop off when you loosen the line and come back in when you tighten it up. When one of them did not change the engine rpm I knew that injector was bad and I changed it. You have taken care of the easy things first like fuel filters etc. You may first want to also check the fuel valve and tank vent.

2008-09-06 10:21:27 by midshipmangill