Boat Engine Mounts

I was preping the boat for launch by charging the abttery, installing drain plugs and such.. When I was done i put the hose clamp on the stern drive and started it up to check for leaks as usual. Well there is a leak. But I never seen it before in this place. It is a 1.5 inch hole in diamater on the engine block behind the engine mount on the right side. Any help?

sounds like a freeze plug has popped, go to your local parts store with the engine info, get a new on pop it in, however, if it was not winterized you may have other issues.
wayne

2009-07-09 19:30:40 by James

engine repower Yamaha 75 hp outboard engines going down. moby-cool motor mounts, prop glop on mounts, new outboard engines on a house boat, swim ...

boat engine runs and sounds great but when you bring the idle lower than 1000 rpm the engine shakes allot it even moves the boat does any one have an answer please help me thanks

You say that the engine is running alright,but you are worried about the
vibration?Unfortunately these 3.0L mercury engines do shake alot at idle and this is normal.I'm sure you have noticed that when they are cold they shake much worse until they warm up.I know that this does not seem normal,but it is.I hope this answers your question,and happy boating.

2008-08-16 13:00:56 by Arllen C

The most commonly available motor mount for an inflatable boat is of the type exemplified here: http://www.trueshopping.co.uk/product.ph p?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=cost -per-click&pid=53131&cid=4644&am p;affid=25&utm_campaign=Outboard_Mot or_Mount_for_Voyager_500
I have one of this type and it has buckled and broken under the strain of propelling my boat. This one is supposedly rated for up to 3 hp engines. Does anyone know of a more robust version commercially available that might not disintegrate so easily?

Thanks

no, the boat is a light duty inflatable, it is not designed for rugged use. while there may be a way to add cross bracing to the motor mount doing so may cause additional chafing to the boats fabric and cause other problems. in reviewing video's of your boat, i find that most are powered by a low thrust electric motor.

my suggestion is to look at heavier duty inflatables made with a transom mounted outboard motor. this type of inflatables are made by zodiac and others and are rated for much higher hp and are much more seaworthy.

http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/categ ory/PWC/Inflatables

hope this helps

2010-06-13 09:37:08 by Ian I

Price: $110.99 $99.00

5 forward speeds, 3 reverse speeds for maximum control
Indestructible composite shaft backed my a lifetime warranty; two year warranty covers the motor
12-volt freshwater transom-mounted trolling motor with a thrust level of 30 and a 30-inch shaft

The anti cavitation plate is about 1-1/2 inches below the pontoon boat mounting plate that is under water. It is on the second hole set of the engine. One hole set above set above. Can't find any kinks in the steering cable and it is well lubricated.
I have been reading alot about pressure wave and operating location of the anti cavitation plate. The prop in the pressure wave can cause a lot of problems? It seems that I'm too deep and this is creating the torque I feel in steering. Just where is the reference location of the AC Plate to the logs or the mounting frame bottom on a pontoon boat? Or do I just go by the AC Plate should not be under water? I would like an on the ground reference diminision. This outboard weighs a ton. Trail and error is not a happy camper way to go.
The steering is through one cable push/pull. The steering cable is new. The motor turns easy enough by hand when out of water and I'm at the back of the boat moving it. Not real hard steering when not under power thru the steering wheel either. The motor "anti airation" plate is over a foot in the water with a normal load on the pontoon boat not under power. I contacted Mercery Marine in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. They gave me a diminision of 3 inches under the water for this "anti airation" plate as a minimum when not under power. Mercery says that being this deep will cause hard steering. To comply with the 3 inch min diminision, there isn't a way the rigging would allow this. I asked Mercery for a Maximum diminision and they said see a dealer for the reason they set this so low in the water? I have yet to get the dealer to agree that the boat steers hard. Fat chance they will agree it is set too low.
I assume Mercery calls the anti-cavitation plate anti-airation. I have picture ref.

what type of steering system is it?
as said, lubricating the cable isnt possible, should be sealed, meaning, it never needs lubricating. if the seal is gone, cable is shot, new cable job.
however, some older cables could be lubricated. depends on it its a pull cable. where you have 2 cables each side of the boat, qhich can usually be lubricated, by greasing the steering gear behind the helm and the exposed cables on full lock.
some of the, now outlawed, ball and socket cable systems could to. where the cale is hoooked to the engine, via a ball and socket joint in the middle. if yuo have this system, forget lubricating it, tear it off and fit a through hub steering system. that old system also can be hard to steer with.

as far the the water thing. could be a number of things. im douting the caviatation plate though. do you have a dolphin? umm, those plastic fns you can put on your cavitation plate that 'makes the boat faster' etc. if so, take that piece of crap off. all it does is adds wetted surface area and produces drag. they can cause spray to come up, at high speeds sometimes.


******

over a foot under the water is too deep. umm you need to lift that up.
umm the easiest, but not maybe the cheapest, would be if you are lucky, and you have a 'long shaft' outboard fitted. theres usually 3 sizes manufacturers use.
short shaft, which is 15inch, long, which is 20onch, and extra long shaft, which is 25inches.

this measurement is the measurement from the mounting bracket, where it rests on the transom, or engine mount. down to the cavitation plate.

as a rule of thumb, to determin what shaft length your set up calls for, you measure from the top of the transom, to the bottom of the hull, then use which ever shaft length comes closest. for example, if it measures 19 inches, then you would use a long shaft motor. being a pontoon boat however, its not so easy, since, you dont have a keel line to measure to. so, one way s to take a length of wood, and hold it across the back, under the hulls, then measure from that wood, to the top of the transom, or engine brack, or whatever your engine mounts to.
most pontoon boats use long leg, (20") but it depends on th set up and how the engine is mounted.

thats the best way, but, might require high cost output to correct if you need to replace your engine. is possible to convert many outboards, as all it is is a difference in the prop shaft length, and leg length, but a cheaper alternative could be with use of a jacking plate. which allows you to raise the engine up on its mounting. i dont ike them on large engines, but that be a cheaper fix.

2006-04-17 13:40:49 by Joseph

I have a boat that I was told had an Olds. 350 in it. What I have found it looks like the exhaust manifold I have should work on both. Just want to be sure if I want to upgrade! Also will the motor mounts I have work on both the 350 and 455?

yes.

2009-12-08 10:40:32 by Bigred