Boat Engine Bracket

I'm trying to put an outboard on my original Inboard/outdrive boat. I have already removed the engine and outdrive. I bought a 150 horsepower engine and a bracket. The boat is a 20' walkaround. If i install this set up will the ride on the boat be bad because the weight would be distributed differently, and how do i fill the outdrive hole?

When you fill in the hole it can be done with layers of marine plywood glassed into place or you could do it by building up the fiberglass. Since it is not going to be supporting an engine it can be the same thickness as the rest of the transom. You may need to tie in the transom to the rest of the stringer system to strengthen the transom. The brackets are designed to spread the load evenly on the stern. You may be a little light in the back now with the i/o gone but it may be fine. Did you ever think it was stern heavy? To distribute the weight you could always move the gas tank to the engine compartment and use the space where the tank was as storage. These kinds of modifications are done very often, you will be fine.

2010-07-01 11:25:16 by speedbw5

Removing a 170hp Mercruiser boat engine . Re power with a 90hp Yamaha (2 Stroke)outboard. Using a 30inch setback possitive boyancy bracket ...

what does it mean when a company or private seller is selling a boat but in brackets it says (hull only) im confused is the hull the boat just without a engine or is the boat with no elec or anything done could the hull of the boat be put in the water safely just trying to verify what it specificlly means any help would be welcomed
thnx in advance

One thing you can be sure of is that it has no motor or outdrive/transmission. I've seen people sell boats saying hull only meaning JUST no engine/drive and i've seen them meaning that the hull has been completely stripped of all working components. Call them and ask, it's the only way to know for sure.

2008-04-28 05:08:00 by Max P

Price: $129.99 $83.34

12V trolling motor with 18 pounds of thrust
Mounts to transom or boat eyelets (if equipped)
Fits all Sevylor inflatables rated for an outboard motor

I'm just getting back into Radio Controlled vehicles as my son is getting to that age and i'm going to but a boat from scratch.

I'm an electrician so understand all the electric methods of powering it but have never dealt with nitro and don't know where to start.

I can't seem to find any basic nitro systems to look at to get an idea.

Any info on engines, wiring and how the prop housing is attatched(using 'p' brackets?) would be greatfully received.

I recommend buying the book "RC for dummies" and go to anyHobiee shop and you can ask for a for a basic nitro moter system. They areusuallyy around 150$ CAN for a basic kit

2009-03-31 09:55:38 by Pennywise

Price: $110.99 $99.00

Indestructible composite shaft backed my a lifetime warranty; two year warranty covers the motor
12-volt freshwater transom-mounted trolling motor with a thrust level of 30 and a 30-inch shaft
6-inch telescoping handle and tilt twist tiller for ergonomic speed control and steering; lever lock bracket offers a rock solid mount

I have a boat motor that is fairly large. It is on the back of a bass boat. I do not have serial numbers for the motor. The boat motor has the blue mercury decals. it is not one of those high rise motors either. It has the standard size head on it not the elongated tall heads. I do not need an exact year, but rather a bracket. I figure it to be a late 80's model. I have a 91 25hp and it has the red and black decals on it. My buddy has an early 80's model with the tall/high rise head on it and it has the blue decals. So, this is where I am getting that the engine has to be a mid to late 80's model. If you can help, I would appreciate it very much.

the blue decals were used between 1979 and 1983 i think.

2007-07-05 10:46:22 by Brad M

I've seen numerous web pages that claim that it will keep the power head dry, and some that even say you can leave the drain plug uninstalled (but I'm not sure if the latter applies to with-engine or not).
One note: The transom has a 1/8" stainless plate installed (non-watertightly) on the inner surface, and the bolts attaching the motor pass through the plate. It looks like originally the center foot or so of the transom was made a few inches lower than the rest of it, but that's been built up to flush with a wooden spacer. The main motor support bracket, which I think normally would hook over the transom, is actually about 1.5 inches above the transom spacer. All this raising of the engine may just be a means of accommodating a longer shaft.
So, do you think my '72 13-foot Whaler with a '92 40 hp Force engine can survive a deluge?
Also, can you guess what my mileage will be at economy cruise?
And, is 40 hp overkill for that boat, and can the motor break the transom, with the usual wave slap happening and being cantilevered up so far?
Many thanks for any info you can provide, especially experience-based.

We were dealers for Boston Whailer in 1972, so I know your boat. The transum was for a short shaft, an in those days the 40HP was the recommended motor. I have personally been in the Cheasapeke Bay in a swamped 13 ft whaler with a 40 short shaft. in 5 to 7 ft swells. The motor would not only start and run,(power head out of water), but it actually caused water to self bail over the transum, and then it drained through the drain hole until almost all of it was out. I agree the spacer was to use the more common long shaft motor. Height and bracket isn't as important as the depth of the drive (prop) and angle to the bottom of the boat. I could run 3 - 4 hours on a 6 gal tank, but I wasn't full throttle much and not pulling skiers. I hope his info helps. BOL

2008-08-02 16:31:37 by kirchwey