Bayliner Accessories

1990 bayliner 120hp l drive force i/o?
my son was jump starting the boat at the lake after he let the battery run down and for got to disconnect the positive cable on the boat then touched the 2 ends from the truck together short circuited the solenoid plus 2 -30 amp fuses 2 relays and several wires now the accessories are working but for some reason it won't start any ideas on what to try next now i bought the rectifier and new plugs the stator and trigger test good so i don't know where to look next ????? any help would be great
need to know this:

when you turn the key, what happens?
does the solenoid "click"?
does the starter engage the flywheel?
does it spin the flywheel at a normal rate of speed?

check your neutral safety switch.

hi
when the key is turned the motor cranks over but won't start
the solenoid is new but i have never heard it click
the starter does engage the flywheel but it is very slow
the safty switch was by passed by the person that rebuilt the boat

It sounds like you've covered the bases. There is an ignition kill switch on this model boat, so I'd check that. The real question is that there is "NO SPARK"... right. If so disconnect the wiring harness from the terminal strip, then jumper red and purple and crank the engine. If you get spark then the tested components are working, but I suppect the CD box is bad even though it test good.

2008-06-14 21:38:29 by lexus e

Great deal at $42K OBO! Engines Engine Brand: Mercruiser Engine Model: 5.7L with closed cooling (FWC) system Cruising Speed: 25 mph Maximum Speed ...

my son was jump starting the boat at the lake after he let the battery run down and for got to disconnect the positive cable on the boat then touched the 2 ends from the truck together short circuited the solenoid plus 2 -30 amp fuses 2 relays and several wires now the accessories are working but for some reason it won't start any ideas on what to try next

Yes. This motor is the same power head as the outboard. On the back side of the engine is the "pulse pack." It controls spark to the coils. It's prone to failure due to excessive amperage surges, like the one you describe. An easy check is to connect a timing light to each cylinder and crank the engine. If it flashes you problem is elsewhere. If not! Well you know!!! $$$$

2008-06-07 15:30:42 by lexus e

Looking to buy a 17-20 foot used boat. To give you an idea of what style I like, a Sea Ray 180 or Bayliner. Not really into the center consoles like the Mako and Boston Whaler. Boat to be used in the ocean on weekends and stored in a garage on its trailer.


Would you go with the straight outboard engine or is a inboard/outboard ok? Have heard the outboards are more designed for saltwater use and the in/out are car engines (and more difficult to work on.

What are some things to look for and how old is too old?

Been focussing my search on 1998 to current and trying to be under the $12k range with a trailer and the normal accessories.
Some Additional information:
Boat is being used in Florida in the Gulf of Mexico (salt water).

A friend and experienced boater advised me to shy away from the I/O due to corrosion which is enhanced by being in an enclosed space even with the air intakes. I am fairly handy and will do most of the work, but would like to find a newer engine.

Thanks for the answers.

I/O is harder to steer at slow speeds. I/O may have leakage problems causing the boat to sink at dock. Be sure to check the gaskets on an old boat. I/O or outboard may be used in salt or fresh. It is a good idea to clean the salt off after use in salt, including running water through it. If it is raw water cooled, check the system. You probably should get a survey

2007-07-16 11:00:13 by tenfuchs